11. The Coast of Malabar

Today we are heading out of the mountains on a circuitous route downhill to the coast where the Arabian sea laps the shore.  Our destination is the ancient port of Cochin now known as Kochi) on the fabled 'Malabar Coast'.

Known by Arab traders since ancient times for the spice trade, which shaped the history of the region for over two thousand years and a port of call for many of the ancient explorers including  Marco Polo in 1324, Vasco da Gama in 1498 (he died of malaria in Cochin in 1524)

I remember a poem from the 'Boys Own Paper' (cost me a whole shilling when I was 13 years old !)

 Far away across the ocean, Underneath an Indian star
Dwells a dark eyed lonely maiden
On the coast of Malabar

 In the harbour, where we anchored, I can see her shy and sweet
With a bunch of wine-red roses
And the wild waves at her feet

And my thoughts keep ever turning to that far-off distant shore
And the dark eyed girl who loved me
On the coast of Malabar

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The Malabar Coast lies between the Arabian Sea and the Western Ghats mountains, stretching down the east coast from Goa to the southern tip of India.  The coastline is about 500 miles  of continuous sand dunes and coconut palms.  Behind the dunes lie a long line of lagoons and brackish lakes which form a network of waterways.  Many are linked by canals and used by small boats and fishermen.      

  

This narrow coastal plain is well watered by mountain streams, ideal for growing rice and spices in huge volume.  In many places the coconut palms, which have an important role in the economy, have been organized for easy harvesting.   Intercropping is also popular here and in many of the plantations a suitable second crop is planted below the palms taking advantage of the shade from the overhead canopy.

The inland waterways and lakes hidden behind the sand dunes can also be explored by boat.  Moveable houseboats ( 'Kettuvallams') can be rented with bedrooms, showers and crew.  We didn't go aboard one but we are told they are quite luxurious and great for family holidays.   This boat  is about 70ft long, 15ft wide offering all creature comforts and comes complete with a chef to cook delicious seafood dinners.